Acrylic is one of the most versatile services in a salon. It can build length with tips or forms, add strength over natural nails, and create pink-and-white or color sets. It also has a learning curve. This guide covers the basics a new tech needs: what the products are, how they work together, and how to get consistent results.
How acrylic works
An acrylic system has two parts: a powder (polymer) and a liquid (monomer). When you dip a brush into the liquid and then into the powder, a small ball of product called a bead forms. The bead stays workable for a short time, then hardens as the powder and liquid react. You shape the bead on the nail while it is workable, then file and finish once it has set.
Always use the liquid recommended for your powder. Brands design their powders and liquids to work together, and mixing systems can change how the product sets and wears. For example, CND powders are designed for use with CND Retention+ liquid.
What you need to get started
- Acrylic powders: clear, natural or pink for the base, and white for French tips. See our acrylic powder & liquid and acrylic powder collections.
- Matching liquid monomer, such as CND Retention Liquid.
- An acrylic brush: many techs start with a size 10 or 12, such as the #10 or #12 acrylic brush. Browse all acrylic brushes.
- A dappen dish for liquid and a small container for powder, both with lids.
- Primer: an acid-free primer like No Lift Nail Primer helps adhesion.
- Files, buffers and tips or forms: see nail files and nail tools. An e-file speeds up finishing for trained techs.
Prep the natural nail
- Push back and clean the cuticle area, removing any non-living tissue from the nail plate.
- Lightly buff to remove shine. Do not over-file; you only need to remove the gloss.
- Remove dust and oils from the nail plate.
- Apply tips or forms if you are adding length.
- Apply primer as directed by the manufacturer, keeping it off the skin.
Mix ratio and bead control
The mix ratio is how much liquid is in the bead compared with powder. It is the single biggest factor in how acrylic behaves.
- Too wet: the bead runs into the cuticle and sidewalls, takes longer to set, and is more likely to lift. Too much liquid touching the skin is also something to avoid.
- Too dry: the bead looks grainy, does not self-level, and may not bond well to the nail.
- About right: the bead holds its shape for a moment, then relaxes slightly and has a smooth, satin look.
To control the ratio, wipe the brush on the side of the dappen dish to remove extra liquid before picking up powder. Practice on tips or a practice hand until your beads come out the same size and consistency every time.
Basic application
- Zone 1 (free edge): place the first bead at the tip or the smile line for a French set, and shape the free edge.
- Zone 2 (stress area): place a bead in the middle of the nail to build the apex, where the nail needs the most strength.
- Zone 3 (cuticle area): place smaller, slightly drier beads near the cuticle and press them thin, leaving a small gap from the skin.
- Let the product set completely before filing.
- File the shape, refine the surface, then finish with a top coat or polish.
Common beginner mistakes
- Touching the skin: product on the cuticle or sidewalls is a leading cause of lifting. Keep a small margin.
- Too thick at the cuticle: a thick, blunt edge near the cuticle lifts and looks bulky. Keep it thin.
- Skipping prep: oils and shine on the nail plate weaken adhesion.
- Dirty brush: clean the brush with monomer after each set, reshape it and store it flat or bristles down, covered.
- Contaminated liquid: do not pour used liquid back into the bottle.
Safety and ventilation
Follow the safety data sheet and directions for every product you use. Work in a well-ventilated area, keep lids closed when not in use, keep monomer away from heat and flames, and avoid product contact with skin. Many salons use dust collection and source capture ventilation at each station.
Related guides
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Frequently asked questions
Can I use any liquid with my acrylic powder?
It is best to use the liquid monomer recommended by the powder’s manufacturer. Powders and liquids are designed as a system, and mixing brands can change set time, clarity and wear.
What size acrylic brush should a beginner use?
Many techs start with a size 10 or 12 acrylic brush. It picks up a manageable bead and is easier to control than very large brushes.
Why does my acrylic lift?
Common causes are poor prep, oils on the nail plate, product touching the cuticle or sidewalls, and a mix ratio that is too wet. Keeping product thin and off the skin helps.
Do I need primer for acrylic nails?
Most acrylic systems recommend a primer to help the product adhere to the natural nail. Follow the directions for the primer and powder you use.